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Patrick's Donut

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This is the Patrick print with a dice catcher, aka a donut. I recommend scaling the thing up before you print it, because I printed mine and it is too small for a d20. 3d printing smaller ones but still this needs to be bigger. If you need to cut this into pieces, to then scale up it's size, I recommend it.

-Bottom: print with supports
-Top: DON'T USE SUPPORTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE PIPE!!! YOU WILL HAVE A HORRIBLE TIME TRYING TO GET THEM OUT!!! I know, my first print failed because I couldn't get about 70% of them out.


LCD Mount + Holder

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It's a remix. I modified it so it can fit my Reprapdiscount LCD that came with Flsun i3, and it also went through some weight loss program. Quicker to print, holds fine.

I used some wood screws lying around to attach the holder to ikea lack table, and M3 bolts and M3 nuts to fix the LCD module to the mount. Use nuts as spacers if necessary.

You can print any kind of cover for your LCD and just fit it over the module. For me, I didn't even screw in the cover, I just friction fitted it over. You could print the front half of something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35438 and just fit it over.

You want to print two of the smaller piece, and one of the longer piece, of course.

Desk PS4 contoller holder

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Remix and redesign of certain parts of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2741515.

Original didn't work well for my desk, good idea, but clamped to my desk would not stop moving, resulting in the arms wobbling, moving and falling out all the time.
The main part with the desk clamp is supposed to push against the desk and thus trap the arms, stopping them from moving or falling out. Clearly did not work for me.
I double checked if I made a mistake in adapting it to my desk's size but although the clamp seemed to fit snugly, it still moved a bit when removing or replacing the controller, thus no longer stopping the arms from moving or falling out. Probably only works well with thick tables like the Ikea Lack.

Redesigned the holding part, reusing the excellent (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1031950) clamp part from the headphone hanger, which I printed some time ago and which is one of the most used 3D printed I own.
I used it twice for the desk holder to significantly enhance the steadiness of that part.

Then cleaned the back of the original PS4 controller holder, made it a bit thicker and more sturdy. Mirrored the arm holder slots and made the notch deeper.

Arms: Left them almost entirely as they were, except, adapted the back part to be much sturdier and fit more snugly into the holder = less movement.

I cannot 3D design if my life depended on it but this worked out rather nicely. I admit there is lots of room for improvement. Still amazed how good the free Windows 10 3D Builder app is. Sorry for the potato pics, the thing is in a rather dark corner. :)

Gecko (STL mesh cleaned up)

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This is a mesh cleanup of thing 1363148 . The original STL has self intersecting faces which causes issue with some tools (e.g. openscad). The cleanup was done by the trinckle free online service an addition to a trivial rotation, scaling (x1.5) and translation to lay on the z=0 plane.

Not other change was made and all rights are of the original creator.

Radial Fang Fan - 4020 Blower fan, 40mm hotend fan

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It's a remix! I couldn't find a radial fan fang that will take 4020 blower fan, and attach onto 40mm hotend fan, so I made one. The attachment holes needed to be moved a little, and the supporting structure had to be redesigned since it interfered with the hotend mount.

I have mine attached to a E3D V5 clone that came with Flsun i3, but the holes are made so that you can adjust the Z height, so it should work for other machines that use 40mm hotend fan.

There's two versions, one with BLTouch mount on the side, another without. If you want, you could use my other thing, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2842776
to attach BLTouch to the front of the fan. Whatever.

Hardware required: M3 bolts and nuts for 4020 fan and 40mm fan, and the mounting screws and nuts that comes with BLTouch.

Once printed, install it, then put a piece of paper under the hotend and set your Z height to 0. Mark where the BLTouch probe is, and where your nozzle is on the paper. Measure X and Y diffrence, and put it in for X and Y probe offset in firmware. Easy.

Photo is pretty crappy, sorry, but if you can make it out, all cables can be routed to the BLTouch side for easy cable management.

//

mesh is a little broken, just repair it in whatever slicer you use. It will print fine

HTC Vive Controller Wall Mount Remix: Now with 100% less command strips.

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Remixed this so that I could mount it on the side of my computer desk.
All I did was add 2 screw holes to rogueqd's design. I take no credit for anything else.

Printed in ABS, duplicated the print in the photo so I'd have one for each controller.

Dremel 3000 Universal Mount V2

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I was unhappy with my previous remix as it didn't look pretty, stylish and cool as the original seen here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1761641

NO NEED TO PRINT THE DREMEL FOR REFERENCE ONLY

The Dremel FILE itself comes from https://grabcad.com/library/dremel-3000-1 BIG Thank You to Krzysztof Dymianiuk

THE DREMEL FITS SNUG !!!!!!

This Remix works great with the Dremel 3000 I purchased at a big box store in the USA. I use this on my Mantis cnc.

You will need 2, 4 mm screws, nuts and a few washers, also 4 screws to mount it to whatever you want to.
You can almost fit everything on the Monoprice IIIP printer bed at once, See the photo i ended up printing the collar separately.

Thanks For Looking

Mounts for heatbed's insulation

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Supports for heatbed's thermal insulation made from cork boards.


V.1 and V1.1

Removed.


V.1.2

29-03-18

What is needed:

  • Print "support insul v1.2_fixed.stl" x 3
  • Print "support insul v1.2_STRAIN_fixed.stl" x 1
  • Print "CR-10_Y-Axis_wire_restrain_bracket_cover.stl" x 1
  • Cork boards 6mm x 2 (310mm x 310mm for CR-10)
  • PCB single face x 1 (same size than cork board for CR-10, at least 260mm x 260mm min).
  • M4 Nuts x 4 (M4 screw on CR-10)
  • Countersunk flat socket head screw M4x50mm x 4 (CR-10 Screw may be too short)
  • Washers size .. ? (soon)

Remember:

  • Follow safe work procedures.
  • Always wear the right personal protective equipment and clothing.
  • Enjoy your self
  • Don't forget to tip your designers

    Semi-circular e3d/j-head fan duct cooler for Flying Bear P905

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    e3d/j-head v6 semi-circular 50x20mm blower fan duct

    This semi-circular 50x20mm blower fan duct is designed by re-mix two models - FlyingBear P905 Turbo Fan Cooling system and one of the semi-circular from Thingiverse. The top half is from "FlyingBear P905 Turbo Fan Cooling system" and the bottom half is from a semi-circular Anet style that I can't seem to find right now. This fan duct is designed to fit an e3d/j-head v6 hotend from this mod https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772682. Then, these modifications are applied:

    1. Change the blower fan hole to fit a 50x20mm blower fan
    2. Increase the fan duct side by 1mm to be a bit stronger
    3. Increase the fan duct top part by 2mm so that it is a bit simple to print the bottom layer
    4. Increase the fan duct narrow areas to be a bit stiffer but all internal remains the same

    The fan is Sunon 50x20mm blower fan - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/GB1205PKV1-8AY.GN/259-1317-ND/1021167- and is a bit more quiter than those cheap 10mm fan. I had tried to print with ABS so that it would be a bit more heat resistant. But due to the shrinkage of ABS, there is crack in the narrow areas and I don't want to increase the wall thickness. Therefore, printed with PLA and then spray heat resistant paint over it.

    The image shows two bridge print tests with 100 and 50% fan setting.

    timelapse tripod smartphone remix

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    Modifique este soporte en la base para que se adaptara a mi tripie.

    CR-10 & Tornado FANG & A HALF with backplate. Easy install and print.

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    FOR:
    CR-10 and possibly other machines (such as Tevo Tornado).

    GOALS:
    Make fang easier to print and install, and more secure without requiring end user to acquire any other hardware.

    DISCUSSION:
    The stock CR-10 fan mount is fine but I thought I would like to try the very popular fang for a little better visibility. Well, I printed it and didn't like the way it came out. So I set about to see if I could make it a little easier to print and install. The biggest problem I ran into was the inside the fan mount where it attaches to the hot end pieces are (for me) too small, hard to print and fragile. Plus even if it does print (mine broke every time), the stock hot end screws are too short to attach through the additional material (maybe I got short screws?) Anyway I edited the mesh (there were some odd um... elements to it and adjusted all but 3 of the mounting holes for a better fit.) Don't get me wrong, like I said great design, I couldn't have come up with it that's for sure, I am just trying to make it slightly more friendly to print and use. This is what I came up with.

    OTHER:
    Since the OEM blower is pretty weak having two ducts might actually be counterproductive. Enter the half fang, because why waste the time and plastic?

    (terrible) INSTRUCTIONS:
    Remove fan mount and fans (OEM total 10 screws). Remove heat sink (OEM 2 screws).
    Install fang by passing the Bowden tube between the two holes in the rear plate of the fang. Align heat sink screw holes with holes in plate while simultaneously aligning all fang plate holes with those on the X carriage mount while paying attention to the routing of heat block wires. Screw in the two heat sink screws and then the two screws to the left of those on the carriage (use access hole for securing topmost carriage screw). Then attach the heat sink cooling fan (4 screws) use notch on right side for wire relief / routing. Finally, attach the part cooling fan at the top (2 screws).

    Feedback always welcome.

    Credit to whoever came up with the fang idea, there are so many remixes I can't tell where the original came from. I have credited where I got the mesh I modded from.

    MPSM Side Panel with Rewire & Gantry Support 8mm for Z-Pro

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    This is a remix of three excellent mods for the Monoprice Select Mini. Mine's a V2. I don't know if this will work with a V1

    I really wanted to add 77-17's Z-Pro gantry support to my Monoprice Select Mini V2, but I really didn't want to have all those parts hanging off my printer. Also, I wanted to keep jcots' no drill side panel. And it had to be split. And have gantry support. :) So I modified SpareChange's side panel with gantry support and wire opening.

    I printed triffid_hunder's LM8UU bushing in PLA and I'm including a copy of it here as it's an excellent fit for the gantry support. I stretched it to 48mm in Simplify3D. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16813

    I'm not saying this is as hefty as 77-17's design, but it's rigid and requires a lot less printing.

    I hope you like it.

    (My X axis rods are a little too long. I bought them from Banggood using 77-17's link. They are so hard I can't even scratch them with my Dremel cutoff wheel! I may eventually bring them to my friend's shop and have him cut them.)

    X Axis Belt Tensioner for Afinibot A3s

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    Just edited the thing from kenneth to fit my very unpopular Afinibot A3s

    Longer Seatback Hooks

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    I really liked these hooks, but I wanted the top portion long enough to hang flat down the front of the seat.

    Minion Lamp glueing spacer

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    Had a brain storm - wanted to be able to rotate the lamp shade without turning the lamp - designed this spacer to fit between the top and the bottom pieces. hold firmly down on assembled lamp with spacer in place - gently sand the top edge of the shade until it turns easily - a little hot melt glue and voila the lamp is glued together but the shade can be rotated


    Hot Wheel Track 180 deg Turn, 45 deg Bank w/ Joiner

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    This 180 degree turn with a 45 degree bank hot wheel track with joiner has the ability to be mounted via a m5 x 6.7mm heat set brass insert from McMaster. Its input / output are level so there is no drop in this design.

    Step files are included if you want to modify the design.

    Screwless NodeMCU Housing With OLED Display

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    Screwless NodeMCU and 128x64 pixel OLED display housing.

    • Massive, screwless version
    • Only 74x54x34mm in size
    • USB socket can be on any corner
    • Display can be top or bottom
    • Wall mounting holes
    • Space for additional buttons, knobs and switches
    • Cooling vents

    Revolt v3 offset plate

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    Remixed design from add1ct3dd.

    Cut out to allow for the bottom connector on the revolt v3. I also increased the thickness to 1.5mm to add a bit more rigidity.

    Improved X Belt Tensioner for Anet A6 X-Axis

    Printrbot Simple Metal Z-Axis M5 0.8mm Pitch Threaded Rod Upgrade

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    Ok so this is a mash up between two different thingiverse listings:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2011148

    So When I saw this one I thought that's Nice but then I need a specific Metric Z-rod and a threaded Collar that I can only buy from a bot shop at premium prices. I saw a complaint on the printrbot site about their metric Z-upgrade that the Z - Axis falls down on itself and needs constant power on the motor to stop this so I thought that's not a good upgrade! .... thirdly I intend to increase my z volume to around 300mm if possible ( not sure it can handle that height but I'll try anyway)

    and then I saw this thing for the original Printrbot simple

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:96737

    This seemed like the better option! A precision thread more specifically M5 0.8mm pitch that's available from most decent Nut and Bolt Stores! ( they sell this by the meter for half the price you'd pay for a 200mm metric z-rod ) and with the fine pitch, it stays put! ......... so I proceeded to draw an adaptor based on thing 2011148. I made a square adaptor that takes two brass nuts, they press fit from the side that mounts against the plate ( turns out two require more force than the Printrboard can deliver so I threw one out and only use one. I made no provision for a backlash spring or such because I don't think it's necessary since the thread has the weight of the z-axis on it.

    watch the assembly ( I left no hole on the adaptor to facilitate tightening the grub screw on the GT2 belt pulley for the Y- axis motor) So before inserting the threaded rod, test fit the adaptor and the motor..... add the pulley, mark where it needs to be then remove the motor, tighten the pulley in place, add some loctite to the grub screws and then assemble the Y -axis. Insert the threaded rod last ( if you don't you wont get the pulley past the the threaded rod and wont be able to seat the motor correctly! )

    you'll need to adjust the printer's firmware so that the steps-per-mm matches the new thread. To do this, connect to the printer with your software of choice. In the GCode input field type M501 ( this will read all your printers eeprom settings ) Copy and paste this to a notepad or wordpad page for safe keeping. Now Type M92 4000 ( the new value for the replaced z-rod ) after that type M500. Finally Type M501 to read it back and check that the M92 Command is now 4000. After that it should be ready to print.

    This does work, it is a significantly worthwhile upgrade, my extruder nozzle no longer crashes into previously printed layers and there is no banding in the z - axis even at a resolution of 0.2mm

    Consult both things that I listed here for additional setup info

    If you modify the adaptor, share your mods here on thingiverse

    Enjoy

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